Kars sits on a high plateau at 1,750 metres, ringed by mountains and within sight of the Armenian border. It is one of Turkey’s coldest and most isolated cities — but also one of its most intriguing. Orhan Pamuk set his novel Snow here, and reading it before visiting gives the landscape an extra layer of meaning.
Just outside the city lies Ani, one of the most spectacular and melancholy archaeological sites in the world.
- Region
- Northeast Anatolia
- Elevation
- 1,750 m
- Best months
- Jun–Sep (summer); Dec–Mar (skiing)
- Famous for
- Ani, Kars cheese (gravyer)
Ani — the medieval Armenian capital
In the 10th and 11th centuries, Ani was a city of 100,000 — one of the largest in the world, capital of the Bagratid Armenian kingdom. Today it is an empty plateau of extraordinary ruins: cathedrals, a palace, a mosque, city walls, and ghostly streets that end in grass. The ruins are among the most atmospheric in Turkey.
The Cathedral of Ani (1001 AD), Church of St. Gregory and Manucehr Mosque are the main structures. The whole site is now a UNESCO World Heritage property. Go in early morning mist, or at sunset when the stones glow amber.
Kars Castle and city
The fortress above the city dates to the 14th century and was heavily modified by the Ottomans and Russians. From its battlements you can see the entire Kars plateau and, on clear days, Mount Ararat. The city below has an interesting Russian grid of stone commercial buildings from the period of Russian occupation (1878–1918).
The Kars Museum contains Armenian, Georgian and Urartian artefacts from the region.
Sarıkamış ski resort
50 kilometres southwest, Sarıkamışis one of Turkey’s best ski resorts, with powder snow and forest scenery unlike anything else in the country. Skiing runs from December to March.
Kars in pictures
Frequently asked questions
Kars
2Absolutely — Ani is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in Turkey and completely unlike anything else in the country. It justifies the long journey to Kars on its own.
June to September for Ani and highland walks. December to March for skiing at Sarıkamış. Winter in Kars is very cold (-20°C possible), so prepare accordingly.